Building Control is the
householder’s responsibility
It is the householder (the property owner)
who is legally responsible for obtaining
Building Control approval. Very often
architects and builders will handle this for
you. But you should check that it is being
done and ask to use your local authority
team who are independent, have local
knowledge of sites and buildings and are
always available to protect your interests
should issues arise.
What are the Building
Regulations?
If you are considering undertaking any
development you must consider whether
the project will need to have planning
permission and/or a Building Regulations
application. These are two separate
applications and must be applied
for individually.
Building Regulations are the national
standards in England and in Wales
that apply to most types of building
work, whether in homes or commercial
properties. They ensure that the
environment in which we all live is a safe
and healthy place and that buildings are
sustainable, energy efficient and that
reasonable provision is made for people to
gain access to and use the building and its
facilities. Building Control approves plans
and specifications and inspects building
works as they proceed.
How to make a Building
Control application
Remember that Building Control is
different to ‘planning’ and requires a
separate application.
There are two types of Building Control
applications. For larger projects, where
you have plans drawn up, you make a
‘Full Plans’ application. However, for
small quick projects, a ‘Building Notice’
may be used by your trades person
or builder.
It is easy; you simply go to your local
authority website and search for Building
Control. Then look for “applications”.
Or you telephone or visit your council.
Alternatively, go to the national LABC
website www.labc.co.uk and put in
your postcode – this will then provide
the contact details for your local
authority team
Planning your project
But there is a potential downside.
Embarking on major works like taking
down walls, or re-fitting kitchens and
bathrooms can go horribly wrong if
they’re not planned properly.
Planning ahead
Whatever type of project you’re
considering, the key to success
is thinking it through in advance
– checking whether the proposed
works will require Planning or
Building Regulations consent, finding
a good builder and, crucially, drawing
up a realistic budget. Time spent at
this stage can save a huge amount of
heartache and expense further down
the line. After all, it’s a lot easier to
move a wall on a drawing than it is
later on site!
Minimising disturbance
Some improvements cause little or no
upheaval and can be done whenever
the fancy takes you – such as
insulating the loft. Other projects, like
decorating or re-fitting a bathroom
can be done on a room by room basis.
But anything that’s likely to generate
lots of dust, mess and noise, such
as sanding, drilling or taking down
ceilings, will need careful planning
When it comes to designing your
conservatory, there are some general points
to bear in mind:
• Better quality designs have base walls
of cavity masonry construction laid
to normal foundation depths, upon
which the superstructure is fixed – as
opposed to simply being erected upon
a thin concrete slab (which can lead to
problems with structural movement).
• Flues serving wall-mounted boilers are
often located so they clash with the
proposed conservatory. This normally
means having to relocate the boiler so
the flue is well clear of the building.
• Ventilated roof ridges should be
incorporated to relieve air pressure and
prevent ‘wind uplift’ that can push out
lightweight roof panels.
• Try to avoid building the conservatory
where it could hamper rescue by ladder
in the event of fire to windows serving
loft rooms.
Replacement of Conservatory Roofs
Many conservatories are now reaching
the end of their natural life or are starting
to cost substantially more to heat.
Homeowners are now looking for cost
effective ways of retaining their existing
floor space whilst improving the energy
efficiency of the conservatory. To this end
they are giving consideration to replacing
their existing obsolete translucent roofs
with solid ones.
Conservatories have been exempt from
compliance with Building Regulations for
many years – as long as it is a lightweight
structure comprising of predominantly
glazed walls/roof and that the conservatory
is thermally separated from the main
dwelling.
When building work is carried out to
significantly reduce the proportion of
glazing or level of translucence to the
roof – the conservatory can no longer be
classed as exempt from Building Regulations
compliance.
So, if you intend to replace your existing
conservatory roof with either a
• Traditional timber roof construction
with tile/slate covering immediately on
top of the existing glazed conservatory
frame
or a
• Lightweight composite roof
immediately on top of the existing
glazed conservatory frame
- a Building Regulation application must
be submitted.
The main issues of awareness in your
conservatory construction are:
Foundations – trial holes will need to be
excavated in order to assess the existing
conservatory foundations. This will be
required to ensure that the foundation is
suitable to support the new roof loading.
Roof construction – structural assessment
of the existing conservatory framework will
need to be carried out to ensure that it is
suitable to support the new roof loading –
It will be necessary to verify the type and
extent of reinforcement within the existing
vertical frames.
If there is no suitable reinforcement in
the existing frames to support the new
roof loading – then it may be necessary to
install new window frames or additional
reinforcement installed abutting the
existing frames.
Energy Efficiency – the new roof
construction should be provided with
satisfactory thickness of insulation so as to
comply with current Building Regulations.
The separating wall/doors between the
conservatory and the main dwelling must
always remain in position.
Please contact your Building Control team to
discuss the upgrading of your conservatory
roof prior to commencing building work.
You will be advised regarding the following:
• How to submit your Building Notice
application – and appropriate fee.
• Arranging an initial site inspection from
Building Control in order to discuss the
project with you and your contractor.
• Providing trial holes so that your
Building Control Surveyor can
assess the suitability of your existing
foundations
• Discussing and agreeing support to
your proposed roof construction with
your Building Control Surveyor.
Picking windows
The choice of new windows on the market
is extensive. You can buy anything from
quaint replica box sashes to conventional
side or top hung casements or even exotic
‘tilt-and-turn’ units. These are available in
a variety of materials such as softwood,
hardwood, UPVC, painted aluminium or
galvanised steel, as well as in a range of
colours and glazing styles. It’s worth noting
that although UPVC windows are sold as
‘maintenance free’, and don’t need periodic
decoration, they typically have a useful life
of only around 30 years. But double glazing
offers other important benefits, such as
improved security, sound proofing and
reduced condensation.
As a general rule it is worth trying to
emulate the original window architecture
of the house. Fitting cheap plastic windows
into a period cottage is likely to slash its
market value as well as, quite possibly,
contravene planning laws. The quality
of original windows in older properties
is generally far superior to modern
equivalents. They can also be an important
part of the building’s character, so it’s
usually a better option to restore them.
In contrast, softwood windows dating
from the 1960s to 1980s can be especially
prone to rot, and likely to require
complete replacement.
Glazing
Glazing technology has made great
advances in recent years, and even
super slim units can achieve excellent
performance. There are three key features
that help thermal performance:
• Gas filling reduces heat transfer across
the glazing cavity.
• Low-E (emissivity) coatings reduce
heat loss across the glazing cavity.
• Super-insulated frames incorporate
‘warm edge’ spacers to reduce heat
loss via thermal bridging.
Where historic windows in older properties
need to be retained, a good alternative
is to install internal secondary glazing.
These can comprise double glazed units
that open inwards to the room. Secondary
glazing also has superior sound deadening
qualities to double glazing.
Alternatively, special super-slim double
glazed units can sometimes be fitted to
existing window frames in period houses,
retaining much of their period charm.
Cold bridges
The vertical sides of the walls around
window and door frames (the reveals)
sometimes suffer from damp and mould.
This is due to ‘cold bridging’ where the
brick or blockwork is ‘returned’ around the
corner forming a bridge between outdoors
and indoors. To avoid this when re-fitting
windows, special insulated plastic ‘cavity
closers’ filled with polystyrene foam can be
inserted to ‘close the cavity’. This also has
the advantage of forming a vertical DPC and
some types can provide a fixing point for
window frames.
Structural issues
It’s important that replacement window
contractors carry out key checks in advance.
For example, many properties built from the
1940s to 1970s have no lintels over window
and door openings because the original
frames were designed to support the walls
above, with no need for lintels to the outer
leaf. But replacement windows aren’t
designed to support such loadings. So if
there is no lintel, suitable temporary support
must be provided and a new lintel inserted.
A similar but more serious problem can
occur with bay windows particularly to
1930s houses. The original windows often
had integral columns supporting heavy
loadings from roofs etc. So it’s important
that replacement windows are designed to
provide sufficient structural support.
Demolition
As well as checking in advance whether
there’s a suitable lintel supporting the
masonry walls above the window, there
are a number of key points to bear in mind
before cutting out the old windows:
• Before removing the old windows
ensure you have the new replacement
windows ready on site and sufficient
temporary propping in place
(where necessary).
• When removing old glazing protect
yourself by wearing goggles and gloves.
A useful tip is to cover both sides of the
Payback
Around two million windows are
replaced in the UK each year
despite the fact that recouping
the installation cost from
consequent savings in energy
bills can take well over half
a century!
This exceeds the lifespan of
many modern windows.
More worrying is the fact that
some recently fitted sealed units
have suffered from ‘misting’ due
to condensation penetrating the
seals, shortening the lifespan
of the windows even further
– hence the importance of
ensuring new installations are
covered by a valid insurancebacked
warranty.
.
• The frame can then be cut into
manageable lengths and prised away
from the brick reveals and the opening
made ready for installation of the new
replacement unit.
Frame fixing
Various methods have been used to anchor
frames into the surrounding masonry such
as special frame fixing screws, galvanised
steel brackets or dual cavity closer/
subframes. But whatever method is used,
the screws must not be overtightened and
cause distortion to the frames.
With UPVC frames it is especially
important to leave a suitable gap to allow
for expansion.
A strip of DPC should be provided around
the opening, including sills, prior to installing
the frame. This is essential for timber
frames, which also need to be primed,
knotted and undercoated before fixing.
The gaps between the frames and the
surrounding walls are then sealed with a
suitable silicone mastic. If the outer wall
surface below the window is tiled or timber
clad, a lead ‘apron’ should be fixed under the
sill and dressed down over the tiling
or cladding.
One design factor that affects the look of
the house but is frequently overlooked,
is the question of how far back the new
windows should be recessed within the
opening. Traditionally, windows were set
back about 100mm which helped protect
them from the weather, whereas modern
windows are typically rebated only about
25mm. The best approach is normally to
match the original pattern of the existing
windows, which means that for many older
properties they need to be set fairly well
back. This decision will also affect the
outer sills, which must project well clear of
the wall below so rainwater can disperse
without causing damp
C & L Windows and Conservatories Ltd
48, Stroud Road
Gloucester
Gloucestershire
GL1 5AJ
01452 526028